Zenith celebrates 160th anniversary with revival of legendary Calibre 135
Also the brand’s most iconic chronograph collection in signature blue hue
While it may not carry the same kind of impact as a ‘150’ or a ‘200’, Zenith’s 160th anniversary is still worth celebrating, and the brand is marking the occasion with a new watch collection – the GFJ
The model pays homage to brand founder Georges Favre-Jacot and one of the most famous chronometer movements in watchmaking history, the Calibre 135.
It’s no exaggeration to say that the Calibre 135 has a storied history, having won an unprecedented 235 observatory awards during its production run from 1949 to 1962. Originally designed for observatory competitions, it was overseen by renowned astronomical watchmakers and dominated trials at the Neuchâtel Observatory.
The movement was first revived in 2022 through a collaboration with master watchmakers Kari Voutilainen and Phillips, with a super-exclusive version that reignited interest in this historic movement.
Now, Zenith has taken this tradition one step further, redesigning the Calibre 135 for modern collectors. The movement retains its unique architecture, with an offset center wheel and an oversized balance wheel. It incorporates contemporary technical advances such as an extended 72-hour power reserve, an optimized gear train, a stop-seconds mechanism, and a COSC-certified +/-2 sec/day accuracy rating.
The movement is meticulously decorated with Zenith’s signature “brick” guilloché pattern, inspired by the exterior of the watchmaking factory, and embellished with Geneva stripes and polished finishes.
Housed in a refined 39 mm platinum case with a stepped bezel and curved lugs, the GFJ watch captures the spirit of 1950s watchmaking. The dial combines a lapis lazuli center with golden pyrite flecks reminiscent of the starry sky, a small mother-of-pearl seconds counter and an outer ring with a familiar brick-pattern guilloché pattern. It is completed by faceted white gold hour markers and baton hands.
Strap options include dark blue alligator, black calfskin or blue Saffiano calfskin versions, with the option of a platinum bracelet with an embossed pattern.
But the celebrations don’t end there. Breitling also unveiled an exclusive trilogy chronograph in blue ceramic, paying homage to the brand’s signature color.